Why I bought it: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus (Photo Festival!)-Replay-Quill & Pad

2021-11-25 03:17:03 By : Ms. kindy zhao

High-performance escapement system with "triple chute" protection

Floating lugs maximize wrist comfort

At SIHH 2019, I was fortunate to have a few minutes private meeting with Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid and Brand Product Development Director Anthony de Haas.

In the center of the table is a tray covered with cloth. They quickly pulled it back to show what many Lange fans (including myself) have been waiting for: a prototype version of a steel watch, which later became Odysseus .

This is not a prototype: the author is Odysseus from A. Lange & Söhne

Although I am very excited about the existence of this watch, I am even more happy to hear that Lange is collecting feedback from a large number of enthusiastic collectors. Although when I left the room I was not 100% convinced that its prototype form was essential to me, but when I saw the completed and updated release version in New York in October, I didn’t hesitate. Ask how to sign up!

In my friend Terry’s collection of basic, sponsored and interesting watches, A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus is completely “basic” for me-this watch can become the core of a collection over time Elements, which obviously represents the advantages and brand characteristics of its manufacturers.

A solid foundation: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus

At the same time, I want to flatter myself and suggest that this is just a little sponsored purchase, because it represents the trust and support of the Lange team, because it clearly surpasses the precious metal formal watches that have limited the brand's first 25 years.

Among my various watch types, Odysseus helped me push the balance slightly away from the core of its strong formal watch to reflect my own shift to less formal clothing and a more relaxed lifestyle; in this sense, I want A. Lange & Söhne and I have something in common with this watch.

Get your sweatshirt ready: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus

If you are a Lange lover, you might understand the most compelling reason I bought Odysseus: this is a Lange watch that you can wear every day.

Our team discussion included some of my thoughts about Odysseus before delivery (but placed after ordering), and I will try not to repeat these thoughts here. But so far, during my two-month ownership period, I have noticed many reasons, which makes me very happy that this watch is mine.

Don’t worry, there is no unboxing video: Arrival, A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus

The taste of that new watch: Okay, maybe it's not exactly the same thing, but it's a pleasure to receive a new watch from a major manufacturer, whether it's a salon ceremony or a trip to a UPS store. Before starting the main activity, I spent a long time opening and checking various cards, auxiliary items and boxes.

The label says "Quality": Delivery package, Lange Odysseus

Of course, the eternal hope is that the unveiling of new works brings pure pleasure. I am happy to report that once I figured out how to peel off all the protective film, I laughed from ear to ear at the amazingness of this watch.

Better than I remember: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus stainless steel blue dial

A real step forward: The team of A. Lange & Söhne could have installed a metal bracelet on the steel Datograph and finished it, but they didn't. I applaud them for this. In addition, I am one of those people who think that the “glove” appearance of the bracelet when it is close to the case is not only bold but also successful.

Lange's commitment to progress is not only reflected in the watch itself, but also in smaller details, such as the rough-surfaced box, leather travel bag and the distressed treatment of the owner's book pages.

Boxes and travel bags, A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus

I was originally satisfied with the more traditional Lange leather box with cream interior (unfortunately, over time, the watch pad and the box will merge into a single entity), but now I have seen the Austrian Desseus-specific accessory designs I can't imagine them in other ways.

A. Lange & Söhne's distressed leather folio "Odysseus"

The real Lange watch: Remove the name, it still yells "Lange" in almost too many ways (from my point of view for a more thorough accounting, please check our team discussion). Now that I have a watch on hand, as a test, I was able to compare the shape of the Odysseus with the shape of my other Lange watches; although there are some updates, the similarities in the family are obvious.

Family bond: A. Lange & Söhne Pour le Mérite Tourbillon (1994) and Odysseus (2019) case introduction

In terms of dial, familiar but updated functions include day and date windows, which of course include the traditional Lange big date, but also reflect the design of Zeitwerk, with a double window in the style of Semper Opera clock, and its frame has curved edges. To match the radius of the bezel.

Same but different: day and date window, A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus

The back of the watch is constantly updated, with an embossed engraved bezel, a German silver plate with thick (and widened) stripes, a swan neck adjuster (in this case to correct beat errors), an engraved balance bridge, and even There is also a sleeve on the pivot of the escape wheel to let us know the origin of Odysseus.

The Undoubted Lange: The Reversal of Odysseus

Functionality and thoughtfulness: any Lange watch will pay great attention to functionality, and Odysseus is no exception. Some of my favorite parts:

Drooling: Beautifully integrated day indicator buttons, Lange Odysseus

Lange Odysseus buckle with fine adjustment button in the center

Even better, just press the button to stretch the bracelet-shorten the bracelet, just push the sides of the bracelet towards each other, and the hidden ratchet mechanism does its magic.

Adjustable ratchet device, Lange Odysseus bracelet clasp

Determining the size of the bracelet is almost as easy: although A. Lange & Söhne provides a small button tool for the watch, I just press the small round button on the link with a toothpick, then remove and replace the link to get the right length. Each link of the bracelet uses this quick release mechanism (except for the well-designed half link), which brings an additional benefit: there are no visible screws or pins on the outer edge of the bracelet link, thus saving half of the chain Festival.

Odysseus bracelet link details, half of the link can be seen near the left end of the bracelet

what time is it? Luminous hands and markers, Lange Odysseus

Female connection: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus's bracelet watch case interface

Odysseus bracelet design is not: the whole (inseparable one-piece design). This is actually good news, because I suspect that A.​​Lange & Söhne will provide Odysseus with more bracelet types at some point, just like Vacheron Constantin offers steel, rubber and leather options for its overseas collections.

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus' male connector, watch bracelet case interface

Adaptation for purpose: Tony de Haas and his design team changed something for a reason. In Odysseus, the changes we saw include increasing the frequency to 4 Hz and sinking a balance screw to reduce the resulting turbulence; using a balance bridge anchored at both ends; adding a screw-in crown and screw-in case back , To provide 120 m waterproof performance; and use ultra-thin, dimensionally stable ARCAP alloy rotor. All these have made a meaningful contribution to the intended use of this timepiece.

Purposeful changes: Caliber L155.1, Lange Odysseus

It pops up! For me, the dial is on top and the buttons are my favorite watch element. A. Lange & Söhne succeeded by using textures, layers and accents to create just the right visual interest. An example: each of the 14 platinum application time scales is a 12-sided geometric shape, including five non-vertical slopes and a central downward lumen stripe to provide a good measurement for the viewer from any angle Flickering light.

Another: The silver outer ring of the same style that made Zeitwerk Date my winner reappeared in this design, redesigned to have a 60-minute scale with a red 60, just to add a bit of enthusiasm. One more personal preference: I agree with the blue background and the white letters and numbers in the date window.

It suddenly appeared: the dial of the Odysseus calendar watch by A. Lange & Söhne

It looks better in the real world: a picture may be worth a thousand words, but people will tell you that it is better to look at the watch in person for a reason, because photos rarely make a complete impression.

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus on the wrist and under natural light

The good news for me is that Odysseus looks better in natural light than in a light tent, and on the wrist or bedside table is more attractive than any published image I have seen.

Best Individual: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus and Calibre L155.1

As an engineer, I know that every design job involves trade-offs. If handled properly, these are all done in the context of a set of identifiable design principles to ensure consistency, but you still need to give up something to get something else, and Odysseus is no exception.

For me, the major trade-offs in the Odysseus design are a direct result of Lange watch design principles, especially its shape, which can be immediately recognized as a Lange watch. Once this rule is established, the natural result is the addition of "Lange Lugs" and how the bracelet is connected to the watch to surround the appearance of these lugs.

Born because of the lugs, and die by the lugs: the case and the outline of the lugs, Lange Odysseus

I’m sure that the Lange team has studied countless alternatives; for a person, I can do it without these lugs, and hope to see a bracelet outline at the connection point, the case reflecting the pyramid of the pusher Shape, but this would conflict with design principles.

The quick adjustment of the buckle is a miracle, but it requires a single-sided buckle design, and its long blade must be placed "just right" in order to feel comfortable under the wrist. I had to toss about the bracelet links several times to make me feel right, but it was still not as smooth as the double-sided Wellendorf buckle of my A. Lange & Söhne Pour le Mérite bracelet. However, I do like to click in and out length during the day!

Long blade: single-sided adjustable clasp on the wrist

A. Lange & Söhne's emphasis on relative thinness has led to the choice of ARCAP alloy rotors instead of thicker and more flexible gold rotors, which I guess will also result in a 50-hour power reserve limit. I'm actually not sure if the gold rotor will give the sports watch the correct look, but I want to be able to put this watch in the safe for a few days without having to install it on the winder, and then it will be fine without adjustment The time, day of the week, and date can be re-opened by winding it on the chain.

Finally, the lengthy linkage used to provide a quick setting mechanism for the day of the week caused the date and date buttons to feel different. Lange positions this as a feature (it is easy to tell which sensation is related to which adjustment) rather than an error, but as a fan of A. Lange & Söhne’s usual practice of making pushers feel very similar to each other, I do want the tactile experience More evenly. 

I am now used to the Odysseus nomenclature, although it still reminds me of the Jaeger-LeCoultre model series of the same name in the 1990s. But I do hope that what A. Lange & Söhne chooses more reflects the user's preferences and experience, rather than Lange's journey of making his own watches.

At some point, I believe I will understand why so many major brands of sports watches (Nautilus, Offshore, Overseas, Marine, etc.) seem to focus on the nautical theme; a major feature of Odysseus is the "wave-like" on the balance plate "Sculpture. It certainly looks good, but for me, it has lost an important point of knowledge of Lange: the personalized engraving of each balance bridge is the unique design of its engraver, and as the owner The pleasure of identifying (or even meeting) the craftsman responsible for carving on your watch.

Wave pattern engraving, A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus balance bridge

However, the above are all small potatoes. A major issue with Odysseus can be seen in the photo below, where the widest bracelet link meets the lugs and the curved links, which are connected to the case again. The edges of the wide links are very sharp, and the gap is a little wider than the other links, usually forming a bright, sharp line that draws the line of sight away from other parts of the watch.

Only this one: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus case and bracelet with sharp connecting lines

If the lugs and the first link are shorter or curved, or the leading edge of the widest link is more oblique, or the gap is smaller, or if my wrist is rounder and larger, I won’t have this problem; but At least I hope Lange can solve this in the future iterations of its steel bracelet watches. 

I wrote a check, but should you join the waiting list for this latest version of A. Lange & Söhne? if:

Is it for you? A. Lange & Söhne Stainless Steel Odysseus Calendar

On the other hand, there may be a better place to focus your time and money in the following situations:

Never stand still: Three generations of Lange timepieces collected by the author: (from left to right) Pour le Mérite Tourbillon (1994), Datograph Perpetual (2006) and Odysseus (2019)

As collectors, we have the ability to make our own choices and build a collection that suits us; to me, Odysseus is clearly suitable for mixing, and I look forward to hearing your thoughts in the comments below!

For more information, please visit www.alange-soehne.com/en/odysseus.

Quick Fact: A. Lange und Söhne Odysseus Reference 363.179 Case: 40.5 x 11.1 mm, stainless steel, with integrated buttons, screw-in case back and screw-in crown; waterproof to 120 meters. Bracelet: stainless steel one-piece design with strap Fine-tuned buckle and quick-release chain link dial and hands: dark blue dial, white gold luminous hour markers; white gold hands, luminous centers on hour and minute hands; date and day of the week and second subdial window movement: automatic caliber L155.1, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency; shock-proof balance wheel, four balance screws, power reserve 50 hours functions: hour, minute, second; quick set date and big date Price: 28,800 US dollars (retail price in 2019) Production year: from 2019

* This article was first published on "Why I Buy It: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus" (Photo Festival!) on January 25, 2020.

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A big disappointment is that the numbers in the date window are not aligned at all. Even my simplest Quarzes does a better job in this regard.

Since the Lange Large Date watch came out 25 years ago, the two-layer date display with a unit wheel under the ten-digit cross has always been a major feature of the Lange Large Date watch. I think you either like it or not!

I really want to buy one. However, it is very difficult to find it. I am from Cairo, Egypt. I called the dealers in Beirut and Dubai and sent an email to A. Lang. Unless you are already the owner of A. Lang, you cannot make a reservation. I think this is a bit unfair

Platinum is available in Dubai boutiques! Although not SS

Due to the pandemic and the high demand, Lange encountered difficulties in the production of this watch. I don’t fully agree with how they manage demand and distribute watches, but it’s fairly standard industry practice to keep many brands’ most ideal products for loyal customers.

Dear Gary Gates. What a reminder. Odysseus' perception is becoming strange. This is a beautiful steel watch with a bracelet, fans have always wanted it. The demand is huge and the supply is extremely low. What follows is a waiting list, rumors, a 2-hand price explosion, and some highly emotional malicious discussions. A "plus point" is: this is a reward for all loyal Lange owners or collectors. Except for Super Rare Ltd. Version, buying a Lange watch is a happy thing, but the money is gone. The resale price is "very poor", and the gray market price of New Lange is not so high. For the first time in history, Lange's friends received a steel watch's "reward" = "plus" no. 1. "Plus" no. 2: Lange provides a series of steel watches for daily activities for the first time. Due to social media criticism over the past few months, it is sad to see the brand's bad reputation. "ALS has become the most arrogant brand in history in just one year", "She/he received unprecedented rudeness and rudeness in the store", "She/he was only registered on the waiting list when she agreed to purchase. There is at least a second watch in the boutique." ... It all has to do with steel watches-oh no. Is it time to protect the brand? Does this story shift from protecting watches and customers from low resale "value" to protecting brands from bad images? I would love to know how discussions or reviews about this cool watch and this great brand developed. Regards, Thomas.

I could not agree more. The gray market is full of new L&S regular models, with a 25% discount, because the brand cannot drive all the desired sales through official channels. Second-hand prices are even more frustrating. Now we have bundled sales, I'm not even sure if this is legal, and it's definitely a shame to L&S. The irony of the whole story is that L&S needs to be bundled with their entry-level watches... Gary may have noticed that I really like all his publications, but I think it’s a bit cynical to call the story about watches impossible. Buy "Why I Buy It".

Well, in my defense, I can only say that the demand for this watch "when I buy it" is by no means certain! As you can remember, in the first days, I was severely criticized, and I did ask for the watch as soon as I received it.

Perhaps in this case, I should insist on "why do I like it", nevertheless-like you, I have some concerns about bundling and other demand management methods.

Hello Thomas, thank you for your thoughtful comments as always.

Regrettably, most of the discussion about Lange now is about the scarcity of this watch (and maybe some new limited editions). Just recently, the prices of some other second-hand Lange parts seem to have started to become firmer. Lange has difficulty coping with the huge demand for this steel, but I agree that they seem to be struggling when they find their way.

I will also look at how the dialogue develops with interest!

Have you tried changing the bracelet to a rubber or NATO strap? It seems that the lugs allow this.

I haven't seen any pictures online so I'm not sure if it is possible

I have seen two owners of steel Odysseus who changed the strap to another strap and took the strap from the watch myself (as shown in the article), and I knew it was possible.

At this point, I haven't tried any exchanges, but at some point I can!

If it weren't for the bracelet...

If someone who is good at using photoshop superimposes Nautilus, Jurgensen One and Big Bang Integral bracelets on top of it and see if it looks sexy, or in fact, if it is the right decision, I would be very happy.

However, if I had a collection like yours, the bracelet would not bother me that much. Very suitable.

I may play some PS renderings to see! In other words, once you decide to keep the "Lange Lugs" on this watch, it will impose some restrictions on the appearance of the bracelet. And, I’m sure, it’s not easy to come up with a bracelet design that looks good but is not derived from others.

What makes me happy is that I don’t make a living designing watches and bracelets-it’s not an easy task, and I’m sure I don’t have this skill!

Thanks for your article, Gary.

Since I am a proud owner, I can only rank most of my views in second place. It will be interesting to follow how Lange's strategic transformation will develop. I can clearly see that some popular works (Zeitwerk, Chronos, Datos) have only recently increased in value in the secondary market. Who knows if this is the real market demand or the large gray dealers' oblivion to the market.

Do you know if we will see a new Odysseus model this year?

Hi Ed, congratulations, great choice! Currently, Lange has not disclosed to us whether there will be any new changes in 2021. I can already tell you, don't expect any changes (that I know of) during the Digital W&W Week.

Interesting news. I was also told that there will be more W&W versions this year. So maybe in the second half of the year.

Hi Ed-nice to hear from one of Odysseus's bosses! I agree with you. It will be interesting to see if Lange’s initiatives to support market prices will succeed-I don’t know if we have seen gray market dealers at work, but in the past few years, their actions have definitely taken place Has a significant impact on the prices of second-hand goods of many brands.

Like Beth, I don't know anything about the upcoming Lange product plan, so I think we will all know at the same time!

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