Heart of Gold (and Treasure Box)-The New York Times

2021-12-14 10:28:23 By : Ms. winnie feng

At Paris Fashion Week, Schiaparelli's accessories are indeed strange.

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Fashion week returns in an all-round way, and there are many things worth seeing. Blink (or scroll too fast on Instagram) and you will miss the details: small bag, high-top shoes, feather hat, leather cape and diamond dog collar. Therefore, as part of the new series "Wow Moments", we will focus on the things we see on the runway that make us happy or confused.

Neither the breastplate nor the dickey really embody the spirit of a new necklace-which is also not appropriate-proposed by Schiaparelli on Monday. Both are. Neither.

The facts are as follows: The necklace consists of a thick golden metal chain tied to the collarbone. In the middle is a suitable size earring. The ear is pierced by various crystal rhinestones on the cartilage (twice), inside the ear and on the earlobe.

A rectangular golden resin plate extends from behind the ears to below the belly button. The curves and carvings on the plate mimic the body parts that are covered when the plate is worn. So a little cleavage, a little abs, a pierced belly button. (Navel piercing, like all other looks at the turn of the millennium, appears on multiple runways this month. This is a trend warning.)

There is no prescribed method to design the necklace plate, but Schiaparelli's method is to wear it as a dickey. If you happen to be a playful relative of C-3PO, it will create the illusion of half-nakedness.

During the preview of the spring collection, Daniel Roseberry, Schiaparelli's art director, said: "We have been placing breastplates under all our jackets this week."

Since taking office in 2019, Mr. Roseberry has gradually increased his collection of surrealist anatomical jewelry and accessories. There are eyeball earrings, lung-like necklaces, trompe l'oeil shoes with carved painted toes, and haute couture versions of rings that look like the fingers of a Halloween witch. (Last Christmas, he made a dress for Kim Kardashian with a sculptural six-piece corset in Hulk green.)

Now his latest product, in what he calls the "mental fashion" style of the house: a breastplate-dicky-necklace-mixed thing, designed for eccentric people who want to reveal everything by not revealing anything.